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Haider Ackermann presented Tom Ford’s Spring 2027 collection with racy swimwear alongside sharp tailoring, leather and silk. He described the collection as an exploration of freedom, ease and risk, and said he wants to continue the conversation in future work for the house.
Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford Spring 2027 collection put swimwear and exposed skin alongside the house’s sharp tailoring, cashmere, leather and silk, marking the first time Ackermann showed racy swimwear on the runway for the label, according to WWD. The designer said the collection was about freedom, daring and ease; the presentation signals how he is shaping the house’s sensual image for a new season.
WWD reported that the runway combined barely-there swimsuits with tailored suits and jackets in baby blue, black, olive and white. Some were worn with nothing underneath, while others were paired with plunging swimsuits, bras or shirts left open. Cashmere knits, leather pieces and silk added coverage and texture to a collection that moved between relaxed dressing and evening drama.
The looks included a male model in a crewneck sweater and pale pink thong, with a vicuña coat carried over a leather weekend bag rather than worn. A female model appeared in a black cutout swimsuit, deep-V sweater and heels. Evening dresses in deep reds were styled off the shoulder with matching leather or padded satin bra tops; other dresses used high collars and geometric cutouts. Red flowers on jacket lapels added a formal accent.
Other pieces included a red silk robe with a TF monogram and bathrobe-style trenchcoats in silk or leather. Logo T-shirts offered a more covered option, while some leather jackets had subtle perforated lettering. WWD also noted skyscraper heels and weekend bags in leather, crocodile and linen, with embroidery on some bags. The report does not provide prices or retail availability.
Ackermann Pushes Tom Ford’s Sensual Codes
The collection makes revealing swimwear part of the runway proposal at a house closely associated with sensual fashion, while setting it against recognisable tailoring and polished accessories. That mix matters because it shows Ackermann working with the label’s established visual language while adding a more relaxed approach to dressing: jackets and coats could be worn open, paired with swimwear, or carried rather than treated as formal layers.
WWD compared the swimsuits with imagery associated with Helmut Newton in the 1990s and described the overall audacity as evocative of Tom Ford’s own 1990s work. Those are the publication’s readings of the collection, rather than claims about Ackermann’s direct references. The report also observed that the looks may suit yachts or private pool parties; it did not establish how customers or retailers will respond.
For readers following the house, the collection offers an early indication of the direction Ackermann says he wants to pursue: more freedom in silhouette and a willingness to take risks. Whether those runway looks become widely adopted or remain occasion-specific is not yet known.
A New Season Under Ackermann
The report places this collection within Ackermann’s work at Tom Ford, whose eponymous founder established a fashion identity associated with sensuality and drama. WWD framed the Spring 2027 show as a continuation of that legacy for a new generation. The source does not provide a detailed account of the house’s prior seasons under Ackermann, so the extent of change from earlier collections cannot be assessed from this material alone.
Ackermann said he was feeling more comfortable at the label and wanted the collection to be playful, eccentric and decadent. The show’s mix of tailored suits, relaxed knits, lingerie-like styling and silk robes supports that stated intention. Its central tension is between precise tailoring and deliberately exposed styling, with accessories and richer fabrics maintaining a polished finish across both.
““I was also searching for a kind of eccentricity, a decadence and freedom. There’s more nudity than I’ve ever done before. But it’s not provocative — there’s just this sense of feeling free and taking a risk.””
— Haider Ackermann, as quoted by WWD
Runway Looks, Market Response Unknown
The source is a runway review, not a sales or customer report. It does not say which looks will be produced for retail, when they might reach stores, or at what prices. It also offers no information on orders, buyer response or audience reaction beyond the review itself.
Ackermann called the collection’s nudity non-provocative and described it as a way of feeling free and taking a risk. That is the designer’s characterization; how customers interpret or wear the swimsuits and exposed styling remains open. The show date is also not stated in the supplied report.
Ackermann Plans Further Experiments
Ackermann said he wants to continue the conversation and take more risks in the spirit of the house’s founder. The next collection or public statement from the designer may clarify how far that approach extends beyond Spring 2027, but the source gives no schedule or details about what will follow.
For now, the confirmed development is the runway presentation itself. Whether the swimwear, open tailoring and robe-like outerwear appear in stores, and how buyers respond, will become clearer through later retail and collection updates.
Key Questions
What was new about Tom Ford’s Spring 2027 show?
According to WWD, Haider Ackermann showed racy swimwear on the runway for the first time in his work for Tom Ford, pairing it with tailoring, knits, leather and silk.
What did Ackermann say the collection was about?
He described it as a collection about freedom, daring and ease. He also said he wanted to explore eccentricity, decadence and risk.
Which looks featured in the report?
WWD described cutout and barely-there swimsuits, sharply tailored suits, deep-red evening dresses, a monogrammed silk robe and trenchcoats styled like bathrobes. The report also noted logo T-shirts, leather jackets and statement bags.
Are the runway pieces available to buy?
The supplied report does not give retail dates, prices or production details, so availability is not confirmed.
Source: rss
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